East Cape is blessed with some of New Zealand’s best hidden gems, with little-known beaches, bays, walks and attractions.
Among them is a tiny little place called Whanarua Bay. It’s home to one of the best bed and breakfasts I’ve ever stayed at. It’s a cosy little tree house escape, nestled in native bush with sea views.
The place
State Highway 35, which rounds East Cape, is an excellent summer road trip – it’s like taking a step back in time. Kids play on horses instead of mobiles. Wild pigs run down the road. Cows can be found wandering along remote beaches. And local pubs don’t have wi-fi, so people actually talk to each other.
You can put aside three to four days to fully explore the highway – just make sure at least one of the nights is spent at Sheldrake BnB. This seaside cottage is just over an hour’s drive from Ōpōtiki and sits on the slopes of Whanarua Bay.
The space
The cottage is reached by a short bush walk and you have a sense of relaxation the moment you walk inside. The cabin sits on stilts, meaning it’s up in the trees – and the morning birdsong is magnificent.
Inside, you’ll find a comfortable king bed with a large living area and a considerable outdoor deck with sea views.
The well-equipped kitchen has basic cooking supplies and breakfast ingredients, and there’s also a barbecue on the deck for the warmer months.
You’ll be hosted by the ever-friendly Kathy and Terry Sheldrake, who live on-site and are passionate advocates of the area.
The facilities
The cabin is perfect for any season, complete with a heat pump and electric blanket for cooler months.
One of my favourite parts about the cabin is the extensive deck, with an outdoor dining table and loungers; it’s the perfect place to grab a book and listen to the birds chirp and the trees rustle.
A sofa bed is also available for an $80 fee, which means a third person can stay.
Sheldrake is also dog-friendly; just let Kathy and Terry know when you book.
The food
If you fancy a bite out, close by is a picturesque macadamia farm that’s home to the Nuthouse Café, with lots of yummy treats like macadamia ice cream and slices. If you’re a nut lover, this is a compulsory stop.
Worth stepping out for
Some of the East Cape’s best attractions are on your doorstep – including breathtaking beaches. The famous Anglican Church of Raukōkore is a 15-minute drive away. The historic building sits right on the beach and is one of the most photographed locations on the East Cape.
Another must-do is a trip with Motu River Jet. The journey takes you into the remote Raukūmara Forest Park, where you can see some of the North Island’s most untouched scenery.
Unlike the usual stomach-churning jet boat trips, this one focuses on the history and beauty of the mountains, allowing you to sit back and enjoy the view.
The verdict
Sheldrake BnB is the best place to stay on your trip around East Cape. If you’re in need of a bit of rest, book a few days to unwind.
Fact file:
Getting there: Sheldrake BnB is just over an hour’s drive from Ōpōtiki or three hours’ drive from Gisborne.
Staying there: A night starts from $185, plus cleaning fees. See: sheldrakebnb.co.nz
The writer’s trip was supported by Trust Tairāwhiti. This story was produced as a part of an editorial partnership with Trust Tairāwhiti. Read more about our partnership content here.
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